so, ive decided that i've grown pretty comfortable in my daily life here in santiago. i'm comfortable with my family, my friends, the house, the neighborhood, the city, and even my spanish. but, i realized, this is leaving me feeling a bit, unsatisfied. i think part of the reason that i'm so comfortable is that i'm not challenging myself as much. i'm still being challenged of course, as most conversations are still challenging to understand, but it's not coming from within. maybe i'm a control freak, but i think i need to direct a bit of this.
so, with that said, i've decided to go on a sabbatical from english this week. that means no speaking, reading, (hopefully) thinking, and listening, as much as i can control. of course, i will need to make exceptions here and there, when i speak with people who don't speak spanish. but for the most part, i'm going to try to push myself away from that comfort of english.
this will include reading the new york times online, which is my favorite news to catch up with the states, listening to sufjan stevens or incubus, which are sometimes of dire necessity, and yes, even reading emails from loved ones. hence, one of the main reasons for this post.
if you try to send me an email, don't be offended if i don't write back for a while. and if this sabbatical goes well, i may extend it a bit longer. i love you all, of course, but it's just something i think i need to do.
if you speak spanish (more of you than will admit...polola...) feel free to write in spanish.
otherwise, i will talk with you all later.
love y amor,
kait y katalina.
Sunday, March 30, 2008
Sunday, March 23, 2008
a true cultural experience
i've never tackled a recipe with a dictionary in hand, especially for a dish i've made at least 5 times before...
...that is, until now.
i decided that for la pascua/easter, i would make something special for the family for our big family lunch. i knew i wanted to make something that i'd made before so i had at least a little bit of experience. i have two recipes here, my sister-in-law leslie's apple cake, the only way i enjoy apples, and my roommate lacey's oatmeal chocolate chip cookies. looking at the list of ingredients, i realized that the apple cake would be much easier to make as a first go at cooking in south america.
so the first step was to sit down with my spanish-english dictionary and translate the ingredients. strangely enough, i've never had things like baking soda or cinnamon on a vocab test. next, i asked the nana what she uses to measure things.
"if i need a cup of sugar, what do i use?"
and obviously, she handed me a teacup.
"and if i need a teaspoon?"
again, logically enough she hands me a small spoon, used for tea.
the reality is that my host parents don't cook or bake, so the nana is the only one that does. and as it's her job, she does everything by eye. already i knew it would be an interesting experience.
yesterday morning, saturday, i went to the local supermercado to buy the few ingredients lacking in the house. i easily found the huevos(eggs), azucar(sugar), canela(cinnamon), and manzanas(apples.) so far, so good.
i got home, had to convince my host mom that she didnt need to pay me back for the $4US i spent on the ingredients, and got to work. she was eager to help in anyway she could, so i told her all i needed was help turning the oven on. i had, of course, converted the degrees farenheit to celsius, but, she informed me, the oven doesn't have numbers on it.... you have to do it by levels.
"um...lets just start with the lowest level." again, this would be interesting.
so, i mixed and mixed, using my grand approximations. three eggs, 2ish cups of sugar, 1ish cup of oil, 2ish cups of flour, little baby spoonfuls of salt and cinnamon, and then a taste test. another pinch sugar, flour, oil, and then add the manzanas. after another taste test, it seemed okay. it was definitely different than normal, but it tasted good all the same.
they don't have a 9x13 pan, so i used a couple smaller ones instead.
and into the oven of unknown temp they went.
and then the best part, the universal pleasure of baking---licking out the bowl. mmmmm. anyone who knows me knows how much i love it. it's like a sign of love to me. from the beaters my mom let me lick as a kid when she would make cookies, the very bowls of applecake mix from leslie over the past couple years, to the many beaters i have enjoyed in my apartment in chicago thanks to lacey. if you love me, you let me clean your dishes.
anyways, i waited anxiously and took out the cakes when they were a light golden brown. however, that was yesterday, and the meal wasn't until today. so alllll day and night i wondered how they would turn out.
this morning i got up early (that's a lie) to go buy some ice cream to either accompany the cake or replace it if something went horribly wrong.
and....
all went well! it definitely tasted different. i think it was a little heavy on the sugar and salt, and could have used a bit more flour. but, i think i'd like to consider it the south american version of the apple cake. plus, who could possibly have too much sugar?
this week, i'm planning to venture out with the cookies. my nana told me she's never made cookies and i obviously haven't had any since i've been here, so we're going to make them together. i'll keep you updated. wish me luck.
chao, and feliz pascua.
...that is, until now.
i decided that for la pascua/easter, i would make something special for the family for our big family lunch. i knew i wanted to make something that i'd made before so i had at least a little bit of experience. i have two recipes here, my sister-in-law leslie's apple cake, the only way i enjoy apples, and my roommate lacey's oatmeal chocolate chip cookies. looking at the list of ingredients, i realized that the apple cake would be much easier to make as a first go at cooking in south america.
so the first step was to sit down with my spanish-english dictionary and translate the ingredients. strangely enough, i've never had things like baking soda or cinnamon on a vocab test. next, i asked the nana what she uses to measure things.
"if i need a cup of sugar, what do i use?"
and obviously, she handed me a teacup.
"and if i need a teaspoon?"
again, logically enough she hands me a small spoon, used for tea.
the reality is that my host parents don't cook or bake, so the nana is the only one that does. and as it's her job, she does everything by eye. already i knew it would be an interesting experience.
yesterday morning, saturday, i went to the local supermercado to buy the few ingredients lacking in the house. i easily found the huevos(eggs), azucar(sugar), canela(cinnamon), and manzanas(apples.) so far, so good.
i got home, had to convince my host mom that she didnt need to pay me back for the $4US i spent on the ingredients, and got to work. she was eager to help in anyway she could, so i told her all i needed was help turning the oven on. i had, of course, converted the degrees farenheit to celsius, but, she informed me, the oven doesn't have numbers on it.... you have to do it by levels.
"um...lets just start with the lowest level." again, this would be interesting.
so, i mixed and mixed, using my grand approximations. three eggs, 2ish cups of sugar, 1ish cup of oil, 2ish cups of flour, little baby spoonfuls of salt and cinnamon, and then a taste test. another pinch sugar, flour, oil, and then add the manzanas. after another taste test, it seemed okay. it was definitely different than normal, but it tasted good all the same.
they don't have a 9x13 pan, so i used a couple smaller ones instead.
and into the oven of unknown temp they went.
and then the best part, the universal pleasure of baking---licking out the bowl. mmmmm. anyone who knows me knows how much i love it. it's like a sign of love to me. from the beaters my mom let me lick as a kid when she would make cookies, the very bowls of applecake mix from leslie over the past couple years, to the many beaters i have enjoyed in my apartment in chicago thanks to lacey. if you love me, you let me clean your dishes.
anyways, i waited anxiously and took out the cakes when they were a light golden brown. however, that was yesterday, and the meal wasn't until today. so alllll day and night i wondered how they would turn out.
this morning i got up early (that's a lie) to go buy some ice cream to either accompany the cake or replace it if something went horribly wrong.
and....
all went well! it definitely tasted different. i think it was a little heavy on the sugar and salt, and could have used a bit more flour. but, i think i'd like to consider it the south american version of the apple cake. plus, who could possibly have too much sugar?
this week, i'm planning to venture out with the cookies. my nana told me she's never made cookies and i obviously haven't had any since i've been here, so we're going to make them together. i'll keep you updated. wish me luck.
chao, and feliz pascua.
Saturday, March 22, 2008
just your average family day trip...
...into argentina.
that's right. yesterday, at lunch (around 3ish, mind you), my host mom and dad asked if i'd like to go with them and my host sister for a little 'paseo,' which is like a little trip, i guess. they said we we'd be going to 'cajon de maipo,' which i know is about an hour or so away, but i've only heard of people camping there. so, i really had no idea what we were going to be doing.
as it turned out, we were just going for a drive through the andes. it was absolutely beautiful as we drove through, just barely passing into argentinian territory. we saw a volcano, with a glacier covering one part. we left the house at 4ish and ended up getting back at almost 10, just in time for dinner.
not only was it a beautiful view of nature and quality time with the fam, but it was a reinforcement for me of the latin american ethic of relaxation and spontineity. i understand that not everyone is like this, but honestly, the majority is. that is, they just decided during midday, while having lunch with the whole family together, of course, to go for a 6-hour drive for fun. let's be honest, that is foreign to most families in the united states. and, i find it fascinating that they asked me about 45 minutes before leaving and assumed i would accept. in my mind, i had of course planned out the rest of my day! luckily it only included reading, a run, a nap, and more reading, but it was assumed that i hadn't really thought that far in advance.
then today, after family lunch, the kids kind of tried to hurry and leave after about 30/45 minutes to go back to studying in their rooms and my host dad jokingly gave them a hard time, but conceded that since it's not sunday, they could leave the table before we were all done. after they left but before we stayed and talked for another 20 minutes he looked at me and said, "are things always this hurried in the united states?"
i wish.
chao.
that's right. yesterday, at lunch (around 3ish, mind you), my host mom and dad asked if i'd like to go with them and my host sister for a little 'paseo,' which is like a little trip, i guess. they said we we'd be going to 'cajon de maipo,' which i know is about an hour or so away, but i've only heard of people camping there. so, i really had no idea what we were going to be doing.
as it turned out, we were just going for a drive through the andes. it was absolutely beautiful as we drove through, just barely passing into argentinian territory. we saw a volcano, with a glacier covering one part. we left the house at 4ish and ended up getting back at almost 10, just in time for dinner.
not only was it a beautiful view of nature and quality time with the fam, but it was a reinforcement for me of the latin american ethic of relaxation and spontineity. i understand that not everyone is like this, but honestly, the majority is. that is, they just decided during midday, while having lunch with the whole family together, of course, to go for a 6-hour drive for fun. let's be honest, that is foreign to most families in the united states. and, i find it fascinating that they asked me about 45 minutes before leaving and assumed i would accept. in my mind, i had of course planned out the rest of my day! luckily it only included reading, a run, a nap, and more reading, but it was assumed that i hadn't really thought that far in advance.
then today, after family lunch, the kids kind of tried to hurry and leave after about 30/45 minutes to go back to studying in their rooms and my host dad jokingly gave them a hard time, but conceded that since it's not sunday, they could leave the table before we were all done. after they left but before we stayed and talked for another 20 minutes he looked at me and said, "are things always this hurried in the united states?"
i wish.
chao.
Friday, March 14, 2008
a profile
let me give you a brief personal profile of our new nana (live-in maid):
her name is teresa. she is 33, from peru, and has two children there in peru: a daughter 16 and a son 18. they live with their father, whom she said is a good father, but bad husband. they got engaged/married when she was 15 and she obviously had her son then and her daughter when she was 17. her husband had another child by another woman a few later. i'm not sure when exactly they separated, but i dont believe they are officially divorced.
she came to santiago 3 years ago to begin working and sending money back to peru. she has no family here (which is huge for a latin american). she works in our house monday through saturday morning, and has the weekends off. however, since she has no one else to see or stay with, she goes to her old employer's house on saturdays and babysits the kids so the mom can go out until 4/5 in the morning.
she is a happy woman. she doesn't complain, doesn't mope. instead of sadness, i sense a feeling of acceptance. this is her life. all she wants is to make some money and go back to be with her kids.
she doesn't have any pictures of her kids here, i asked.
she tells me i should fall in love, get married, and stay here. (don't worry mom and dad, i'm planning to resist.) or at least, she tells me i should come to peru next year to visit her when she's back.
she also has a "dream" to go to the united states. she has family in texas and virginia, and i've told her if she ever does it, she has to come visit me in chicago.
hers isnt a horrible story. it isnt riddled with sadness and pity. i just think it is so incredibly interesting to think that simply because of the difference in where/when she and i were born, i sit at the table right now as she serves me my lunch and then goes to order my room. i didnt work hard for this type of luxury. undoubtedly she has already worked harder in her 33 years than i may ever work in my life. asi es la vida/thats life. right?
i guess i reflect on this in relation to starting my poverty and development class at the university and beginning to think about those stories that are horrible, and are riddled with sadness. those that literally have nothing, and have no nearby strong country to go work in, or that country is doing everything in its power to keep them out. those without parents, families. those plagued with disease, starvation, thirst . those who will never understand what a bed feels like, or will never know running water.
i don't want to sound preachy or liberal or whatever, but i guess i wonder when we stop thinking, 'thats life,' and start doing something about it.
paz y amor.
her name is teresa. she is 33, from peru, and has two children there in peru: a daughter 16 and a son 18. they live with their father, whom she said is a good father, but bad husband. they got engaged/married when she was 15 and she obviously had her son then and her daughter when she was 17. her husband had another child by another woman a few later. i'm not sure when exactly they separated, but i dont believe they are officially divorced.
she came to santiago 3 years ago to begin working and sending money back to peru. she has no family here (which is huge for a latin american). she works in our house monday through saturday morning, and has the weekends off. however, since she has no one else to see or stay with, she goes to her old employer's house on saturdays and babysits the kids so the mom can go out until 4/5 in the morning.
she is a happy woman. she doesn't complain, doesn't mope. instead of sadness, i sense a feeling of acceptance. this is her life. all she wants is to make some money and go back to be with her kids.
she doesn't have any pictures of her kids here, i asked.
she tells me i should fall in love, get married, and stay here. (don't worry mom and dad, i'm planning to resist.) or at least, she tells me i should come to peru next year to visit her when she's back.
she also has a "dream" to go to the united states. she has family in texas and virginia, and i've told her if she ever does it, she has to come visit me in chicago.
hers isnt a horrible story. it isnt riddled with sadness and pity. i just think it is so incredibly interesting to think that simply because of the difference in where/when she and i were born, i sit at the table right now as she serves me my lunch and then goes to order my room. i didnt work hard for this type of luxury. undoubtedly she has already worked harder in her 33 years than i may ever work in my life. asi es la vida/thats life. right?
i guess i reflect on this in relation to starting my poverty and development class at the university and beginning to think about those stories that are horrible, and are riddled with sadness. those that literally have nothing, and have no nearby strong country to go work in, or that country is doing everything in its power to keep them out. those without parents, families. those plagued with disease, starvation, thirst . those who will never understand what a bed feels like, or will never know running water.
i don't want to sound preachy or liberal or whatever, but i guess i wonder when we stop thinking, 'thats life,' and start doing something about it.
paz y amor.
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
don't judge--it's harder than you would think
ok, first, the event:
today, in one day, i found both a dunkin donuts AND a starbucks.
the good news: i resisted both, and went to a cafe specific to santiago and buenos aires.
the bad news: the dnd is really close to my house and i'm afraid i'll end up going there a time or two.
now, as the title says, don't judge me. anyone who knows me knows that 7 days/week, 52 weeks/year, i have a big mug of drip coffee in the morning, and often thats followed with an afternoon serving as well (volleyball days). so, having been in a country dominated by instant coffee for over 2 months now, the thought of my ol' grande coffee of the day no room for creme is sounding pretty amazing. luckily, i found that other cafe, and ordered a double 'expresso' (i know, not espresso, which kills anyone who's ever worked in a cafe). i also ordered a torta de chocolate, not really knowing what a torta was, and it was one of the most delicious slices of chocolate cake i've ever had. they would never have anything that fresh at sbucks. ja.
along these lines, i did find an AMAZING little cafe close to my university. it's kind of hidden, a french emphasis, second floor with a patio looking on a plazita with a fountain. and not too expensive, although i'm sure i'll have to start rationing myself soon. i went there with a new friend yesterday for the first of what i hope will be many enriching, rejuvenating conversations in that cafe.
in other news, the dollar went down again. i guess it's a good reminder that we unitedstatesians are far from invincible and all-powerful.
i'm going to include a picture at the end of a cappuccino i had at my new cafe, cafe tales, when i went there before traveling, about a month ago.
and, i guess since this is the most coffee-flavored post i've ever done, i'll include a fun little element. during my travels (before my camera broke) i started a little tradition of taking fotos of the different coffees i drank. again, note it's importance in my life.
EVERY foto is of instant coffee. one of the restaurantes, they brought the cup with hot water, and a little packet of instant coffee. seriously.
so obviously, this was more for me, but i'm sure some of you will appreciate it:
first, the amazing cappuccino, with real espresso, at tales:
next, a cafe in puerto montt:
out of my thermos on the bus, definitely the most common form throughout the trip:
a hostel, in punta arenas:
and a cafe in punta arenas:
and finally, camping:
so, i think those are a pretty good representation of the different forms i had coffee while traveling: cafes, hostels, bus, and straight-up wilderness, in a huge metal mug.
chao.
today, in one day, i found both a dunkin donuts AND a starbucks.
the good news: i resisted both, and went to a cafe specific to santiago and buenos aires.
the bad news: the dnd is really close to my house and i'm afraid i'll end up going there a time or two.
now, as the title says, don't judge me. anyone who knows me knows that 7 days/week, 52 weeks/year, i have a big mug of drip coffee in the morning, and often thats followed with an afternoon serving as well (volleyball days). so, having been in a country dominated by instant coffee for over 2 months now, the thought of my ol' grande coffee of the day no room for creme is sounding pretty amazing. luckily, i found that other cafe, and ordered a double 'expresso' (i know, not espresso, which kills anyone who's ever worked in a cafe). i also ordered a torta de chocolate, not really knowing what a torta was, and it was one of the most delicious slices of chocolate cake i've ever had. they would never have anything that fresh at sbucks. ja.
along these lines, i did find an AMAZING little cafe close to my university. it's kind of hidden, a french emphasis, second floor with a patio looking on a plazita with a fountain. and not too expensive, although i'm sure i'll have to start rationing myself soon. i went there with a new friend yesterday for the first of what i hope will be many enriching, rejuvenating conversations in that cafe.
in other news, the dollar went down again. i guess it's a good reminder that we unitedstatesians are far from invincible and all-powerful.
i'm going to include a picture at the end of a cappuccino i had at my new cafe, cafe tales, when i went there before traveling, about a month ago.
and, i guess since this is the most coffee-flavored post i've ever done, i'll include a fun little element. during my travels (before my camera broke) i started a little tradition of taking fotos of the different coffees i drank. again, note it's importance in my life.
EVERY foto is of instant coffee. one of the restaurantes, they brought the cup with hot water, and a little packet of instant coffee. seriously.
so obviously, this was more for me, but i'm sure some of you will appreciate it:
first, the amazing cappuccino, with real espresso, at tales:
next, a cafe in puerto montt:
out of my thermos on the bus, definitely the most common form throughout the trip:
a hostel, in punta arenas:
and a cafe in punta arenas:
and finally, camping:
so, i think those are a pretty good representation of the different forms i had coffee while traveling: cafes, hostels, bus, and straight-up wilderness, in a huge metal mug.
chao.
Friday, March 7, 2008
now it works?
canopying--like zip-lining. pretty fun, not too extreme, except when i forgot to stop.
the volcano in pucon
another family pic, but i just think it's funny because it looks like i have midget legs. we were trying to do "unhappy family of the '50s"
the inside and then outside of one of the 18th century wooden churches in chiloe.
outside
glacier grey in torres del paine
touching glacier grey
me next to a waterfall. love it.
our "extreme" family shot before canyoning/rapelling down waterfalls. life lesson here? i LOVE wetsuits. seriously. love them.
me, the girls, and one more from the program we met up with that is simply amazing.
the last family pic.
ok, these are the highlights. enjoy!
chao.
the volcano in pucon
another family pic, but i just think it's funny because it looks like i have midget legs. we were trying to do "unhappy family of the '50s"
the inside and then outside of one of the 18th century wooden churches in chiloe.
outside
glacier grey in torres del paine
touching glacier grey
me next to a waterfall. love it.
our "extreme" family shot before canyoning/rapelling down waterfalls. life lesson here? i LOVE wetsuits. seriously. love them.
me, the girls, and one more from the program we met up with that is simply amazing.
the last family pic.
ok, these are the highlights. enjoy!
chao.
a few more fotos
ok, so heres another one of maggie and me at the torres, with a better view of the laguna in the middle.
i'm in love with this one of a fishing boat on a little straight in puerta natales.
maggie and i hiking
me and some people we met sitting on the "beach" at the foot of a glacier
a hilarious one that looks fake and photoshopped, but is completely real.
ok, then after these, blogger decided to stop uploading my pics. so, again, there will be more.
i hope this post finds everyone well and happy and peaceful. unless you're in texas or ohio, and then i hope you're thinking about what you've done...
chao.
i'm in love with this one of a fishing boat on a little straight in puerta natales.
maggie and i hiking
me and some people we met sitting on the "beach" at the foot of a glacier
a hilarious one that looks fake and photoshopped, but is completely real.
ok, then after these, blogger decided to stop uploading my pics. so, again, there will be more.
i hope this post finds everyone well and happy and peaceful. unless you're in texas or ohio, and then i hope you're thinking about what you've done...
chao.
Sunday, March 2, 2008
as promised
ok, here are finally some pictures of the trip. my camera broke after the first week, so these are all early ones, but when i get the pics from the other girls, i'll post some of them as well. i arrived back in santiago this morning at about 730, and i am extremely happy to be back. i'm still in the process of decompressing, so please give me some time to get a hold of you all. i will be sending out emails/pictures/phone calls as soon as i can. thanks again for all the prayers and emails in the last month. it was an amazing, life-changing experience.
fotos:
1-the girls i traveled with, most of the time. this one looked so much like a family foto that we began calling ourselves the patada family (it means 'kick,' long story) and we took a few more family shots during the trip.
this was the view from our tent the first night of camping in torres del paine. it honestly looks like a dream, and that is completely how it looked in person. it was casi painfully beautiful. there were horses just wandering around the campsite at all times. (mom, you would have gone crazy.) i feel like it wouldnt be too ridiculous to see a horn on this horses forehead.
these are the torres (towers). they are huge and amazing. the wind was out of control at the lookout though. there was a lake in the middle (we were way above) and there are waterfalls, more rock formations, etc. it was absolutely incredible. it was about a 3.5 hour hike each way, and the last part was a rock mountain basically, but it was completely vale la pena (worth it.)
this was near the middle of the week, going towards a valle. we stopped because it was too cloudy, and we spent time looking at this glacier on a mountain. this is one of my favorites.
this is in case anyone tries to forget how much of a badass i am. have i mentioned on the blog that i walked 52 miles in 5 days? hell yeah.
this is also a contender for favorite. it was so easy to take these breath-taking pictures that look like they should be on postcards. the clouds were absolutely amazing there, and they moved super fast. (sorry about my english vocab, it's suffering).
ok, like i said, i'll post more from the rest of the trip when i have them from the other girls.
chao.
fotos:
1-the girls i traveled with, most of the time. this one looked so much like a family foto that we began calling ourselves the patada family (it means 'kick,' long story) and we took a few more family shots during the trip.
this was the view from our tent the first night of camping in torres del paine. it honestly looks like a dream, and that is completely how it looked in person. it was casi painfully beautiful. there were horses just wandering around the campsite at all times. (mom, you would have gone crazy.) i feel like it wouldnt be too ridiculous to see a horn on this horses forehead.
these are the torres (towers). they are huge and amazing. the wind was out of control at the lookout though. there was a lake in the middle (we were way above) and there are waterfalls, more rock formations, etc. it was absolutely incredible. it was about a 3.5 hour hike each way, and the last part was a rock mountain basically, but it was completely vale la pena (worth it.)
this was near the middle of the week, going towards a valle. we stopped because it was too cloudy, and we spent time looking at this glacier on a mountain. this is one of my favorites.
this is in case anyone tries to forget how much of a badass i am. have i mentioned on the blog that i walked 52 miles in 5 days? hell yeah.
this is also a contender for favorite. it was so easy to take these breath-taking pictures that look like they should be on postcards. the clouds were absolutely amazing there, and they moved super fast. (sorry about my english vocab, it's suffering).
ok, like i said, i'll post more from the rest of the trip when i have them from the other girls.
chao.
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